How Do I Layer Drapery Over Shades in Brookfield and Elm Grove?

Start with a shade or blind that handles light and privacy. Then hang drapery over it for softness and warmth. In Brookfield and Elm Grove, lots of formal living and dining rooms date from the postwar building years. Most of those windows suit one of three layered looks. You can put side panels over a shade, or use full drapery that closes over a shade. The third look is a top treatment with drapery and a blind.

Each look solves a slightly different problem. Below we walk through what each layer does and how the three looks compare. Then we cover fabric, length and measuring for an older home.

Why do layered windows suit established Brookfield and Elm Grove homes?

Both towns grew up fast after World War II. Brookfield incorporated in 1954. Elm Grove followed in 1955. Families from Milwaukee moved west, and old farms turned into subdivisions (PBS Wisconsin, Around the Corner: Brookfield/Elm Grove). Many homes from those years had a separate living room and dining room. Those were the rooms meant for company.

Plenty of those rooms are still here. Elm Grove's own housing plan counted 1,944 housing units in 2006. About a third were built in the 1950s alone. More than half went up before 1960 (Village of Elm Grove housing plan). Over in Brookfield, more than 85 percent of residents live in single-family homes, says the Encyclopedia of Milwaukee. That's a lot of established houses with formal rooms. And a formal room with only a bare shade can feel unfinished.

Both towns also like room to breathe. Elm Grove's zoning requires houses on large lots (Encyclopedia of Milwaukee, Village of Elm Grove). That helps keep a rural feel. Brookfield's large-lot zoning does much the same. It's known as the "Brookfield Concept." Wide lots often come with wide windows that look out on lawn and trees. Layers let you enjoy that view by day and close the room in at night.

What job does each layer do?

Think of a layered window as a small team. It works best when each layer has one clear job.

The shade or blind is the working layer. It handles daylight, glare and privacy. It sits inside the window frame or just above it. It's the part you raise, lower or tilt every day. Cellular and roller shades work well here. So do woven wood shades, Roman shades and wood blinds.

Drapery is the finishing layer. It brings color, pattern and softness. It frames the window and hides the gaps at the sides of a shade. It also makes a tall room feel cozier. Drapery can be stationary, which means it stays open at the sides. Or it can be functional, which means it draws closed across the glass.

A top treatment is optional. A valance or cornice runs across the top of the window. It hides the headrail of the shade or blind. It can also make a window look taller and more formal.

A common mistake in older rooms is asking one layer to do every job. A sheer panel can't give real privacy at night. A plain blind will rarely make a dining room feel warm. Split the jobs and each layer can do what it does best.

When do stationary side panels over a shade make sense?

Go with side panels when the shade can handle the daily work. You mostly want a frame of color and texture. It's the most relaxed of the three looks. It works well in family rooms and in living rooms with one big picture window.

Here's why it works. The panels never close, so they can be a bit bolder in color or pattern. They won't take over the room. They also use less fabric than drapery that has to cover the whole window. The shade underneath does the real work. A light-filtering shade softens afternoon sun. A room-darkening shade helps in a TV room.

A few tips make side panels look planned:

• Hang the panels so most of the fabric rests on the wall beside the window. Keep it off the glass. That leaves the view and the daylight wide open.
• Keep the panels long. Short panels that stop at the sill look like an afterthought in a formal room.
• Pick a shade color that blends with the wall or trim. Then the panels are the only accent.

When should drapery close fully over a shade?

Pick full, working drapery when you want a second layer at night. It's a good fit for bedrooms and for dining rooms used for evening dinners. Living rooms that face the street are good fits too.

By day you leave the drapery open and use the shade for light and privacy. After dark you draw the drapery across the window. Two closed layers give the most privacy of any look here. A lined drapery also feels soft and warm on a long winter evening. If your living room faces the street, try our simple dusk test for street-facing rooms. It shows you what the street can see.

Working drapery needs a little more planning:

• Fullness. Drapery that closes needs extra fabric width so it still looks full when drawn. Many designers plan for about two times the window width or more.
• Hardware. A traverse rod or rings that glide easily make daily use simple. So does a motorized track. If the drapery is hard to pull, it'll stay open and stop doing its job.
• Stack space. When open, drapery gathers at the sides. Plan the rod wide enough that the stack sits on the wall instead of the glass.

When do a top treatment, drapery and a blind work together?

Choose all three layers for your most formal room. That's usually a dining room or a front living room with a pair of matching windows. This look has the most polish and the most control.

Wood blinds are a natural partner here. They tilt for fine control of light. Their wood tone can echo a dining table or floor. Drapery adds softness at the sides. A valance or cornice ties it all together across the top and hides the headrail.

One word of caution: proportion matters. In a room with a standard ceiling, a deep cornice can make the window feel squat. Keep the top treatment slim. Or raise it so it covers the wall above the frame instead of the glass. In smaller rooms, two layers may be all you need.

Here's a side-by-side view of all three looks to help you narrow it down.

Many homes use more than one look. A family room might get side panels while the dining room gets all three layers. That's fine as long as the colors and fabrics feel related from room to room.

What fabric weight suits a Wisconsin winter?

For rooms you use on winter evenings, start with a medium to heavy fabric with a lining. For bright rooms used mostly by day, a lighter fabric often feels better.

A few points help:

• Linings matter as much as the face fabric. A standard lining gives drapery body. It also helps shield the face fabric from sun. A room-darkening lining helps in bedrooms. An interlining is a soft layer sewn between the face fabric and the lining. It adds weight and a fuller drape.
• Texture changes the mood. Velvet and heavier weaves feel formal and cozy. Linen and cotton blends feel lighter and more casual. Both can work in an older home. It depends on the room.
• Think about the layer underneath. A cellular shade traps air in its pockets. Draw drapery over it at night and you get two layers of fabric between the room and cold glass.
• Check the care label. Some heavier fabrics need professional cleaning. Ask before you choose so there are no surprises later.

How long should drapery be, and where should the rod go?

In most established rooms, drapery looks best when it reaches the floor. The rod should sit well above the window frame. That simple change makes ceilings feel taller and windows feel bigger.

Length. Most people pick one of three lengths. A float stops just above the floor and is easy to keep clean. A kiss just touches the floor and looks tailored. A puddle lets extra fabric pool on the floor for a softer and more formal look. It does collect more dust, and it gets in the way in busy rooms.

Rod height. A common starting point is halfway between the top of the window frame and the ceiling. If the room has crown molding you want to frame, go closer to the ceiling.

Rod width. Run the rod past the frame on each side so the drapery can stack on the wall. That keeps the full width of the glass open by day.

Older-home details. Many 1950s and 1960s homes have heat registers in the floor near windows. Leave room so the drapery doesn't cover them. Plaster walls and older trim may also need different anchors. A pro installer will plan for that.

How do I measure an older room for layers?

Measure every window on its own, and measure each one more than once. Houses that have settled over decades often have windows that aren't quite square.

1. Decide on the shade first. Will it mount inside the frame or outside it? The drapery plan depends on that answer.
2. Measure width in three places. Do the top, middle and bottom of the opening. Use the smallest number for an inside mount.
3. Measure height in three places. Do the left, center and right.
4. Measure the wall around the window. Note the space up to the ceiling and down to the floor. Then note the clear wall on each side for drapery to stack.
5. Write down obstacles. Floor registers, outlets and built-in shelves all change the plan. So do corner windows and door swings.

If that list feels like a lot, don't worry. It's exactly what we check at a free in-home visit. Measuring is included, and it takes the guesswork out of ordering.

Which shades sit best under drapery?

Pick a shade with a slim profile that won't fight the drapery for attention. Here's how the usual options work in a layered window:

• Cellular shades are slim and quiet. They come in light-filtering and room-darkening fabrics. Their air pockets add a layer at the glass.
• Roller shades give the cleanest look. They nearly disappear when raised, so the drapery can be the star.
• Woven wood shades add natural texture. They pair well with linen or cotton drapery for a warmer and more relaxed look.
• Roman shades are soft on their own. Under drapery, a flat-fold style usually works better than a looped one. The looped kind can compete with the fabric beside it.
• Wood blinds give a classic, tailored look in formal rooms. They tilt for fine light control.

You can see corporate's full range of drapery styles and hardware on the Budget Blinds drapes and panels page.

Where should I start in my own home?

Start with the room you use for company. Then work outward. A short checklist keeps it simple:

• Which room matters most to you right now? Is it the living room, dining room or a bedroom?
• What does the shade or blind need to do there? Think filter light, darken the room or give privacy.
• Do you want the drapery to close at night, or only frame the window?
• Which colors already live in the room? Look at the floor and trim. Then look at the furniture and rug.
• Is there wood trim or crown molding you want to show off?
• Are there floor registers, outlets or furniture near the window?

Do some rooms feel tired overall and not just bare? Read our letter to Brookfield homeowners about updating dated rooms. It looks at how far new window coverings can go without a remodel.

The best way to choose is to see fabrics and shades side by side in your own light. We bring samples to you and measure every window. Then we help you match a layered look to each room. Learn more about window coverings in Brookfield and Elm Grove, and book your free consultation when you're ready.

Kevin Sill is CFO and co-owner of the family-owned Budget Blinds franchises serving Brookfield and Elm Grove.